I had totally romanticised Aswan in my mind. For me, it was not just a city but the Aswan from Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile. Cruises, Abu Simbel, Old Cataract, and the Nile amidst all of it.
I arrived by flight from Cairo at night and spent my first night in the Nubian village. The hotel and the village were as colourful as you would hope: painted walls, bright doors and a really friendly host. After breakfast, I left almost immediately for Abu Simbel and stayed there overnight.
Back in Aswan, I came down with a fever. My neat plan involving a high tea at the Old Cataract (Agatha Christie’s hotel) became a very unglamorous evening in bed. The consolation prize was the sunset over the Nile from my room. The next day I visited Philae Temple, bought Egyptian spices and tea at a local supermarket, then spent the afternoon painting by the river and rereading Death on the Nile. This is not the hyper-efficient Aswan itinerary. It is, I think, a rather good one.
| Detail | |
|---|---|
| Where | Southern Egypt, on the Nile, before the river becomes Lake Nasser |
| Time needed | 2 nights as a minimum; 3 if you want Abu Simbel without rushing |
| Headline sight | Philae Temple (boat from Shellal / Marina Philae) |
| The other headline | Abu Simbel, usually as a day trip or an overnight from Aswan |
| Best slow thing | Sunset on the Nile. On a felucca, or simply watching one |
| Official Philae hours | 7 AM–4 PM (Ministry page) |
| Philae ticket | EGP 550 adult / EGP 275 student for foreigners; boat extra |
| Best months | October to April. Summer is properly hot |
Why Aswan is the calmest stop in Egypt
Aswan is smaller than Cairo and less frantic than Luxor. The Nile feels like the heart of the place rather than a river you cross to get to your next monument. There are still boats, taxi negotiations and plenty of people offering tours, but I found the pace easier than in Luxor. The hassle is less, there aren’t too many touts, leaving you enough time to breathe. It is a good place to slow down in an Egypt itinerary.
That is also why Aswan is worth visiting even if you are not trying to complete every possible sight. I had a fever and lost a day; I still left feeling that I had seen a calmer side of Egypt.
How to get to Aswan: flight, sleeper train and from Luxor
I flew from Cairo and reached Aswan at night. For a short trip, flights are the best option: they take an hour and are the fastest and most often the cheapest option. Book a hotel transfer or arrange a taxi in advance for a late arrival, especially if your first stay is across the river or in the Nubian village.
The overnight sleeper train from Cairo is the other alternative. It makes more sense if the journey itself appeals to you and you are comfortable with a night on a train; check the operator’s current timetable, class and tourist fare and book in advance. Day trains are another option, though you will be on the train for most of a day. We chose to fly since it cost less than the train and timings worked out much better.
From Luxor, Aswan is the natural next stop on a southbound itinerary. You can take a train, arrange a road transfer, or travel with a driver via Edfu, Esna and Kom Ombo. I went the other way the following morning, leaving Aswan for Luxor via those Nile-side stops.
How many days do you need in Aswan
Spend at least two nights in Aswan. It gives you one full day for Philae Temple and a slow Nile afternoon, plus either Abu Simbel as a very early day trip or an overnight stay.
Three nights is better if you want Abu Simbel without rushing, a felucca trip, a Nubian village visit, the High Dam or one of the smaller sights. I stayed in Abu Simbel overnight, then had two nights in Aswan, and that worked well even with my unplanned sick day.
One thing I learned from my trip – do not plan Aswan like Luxor. Choose one substantial thing a day and leave the evening open. I found myself cancelling all my plans after the first evening by the Nile.
Things to do in Aswan
Philae Temple
One of the main sites to visit in Aswan is Philae Temple on Agilkia Island. The temple, dedicated to goddess Isis, used to sit on Philae Island before being moved to Agilkia during the construction of the Aswan High Dam.
Go early in the morning and set aside at least a few hours to visit this temple unhurriedly. Arrange the boat price and return plan before you get in, then leave enough time to walk through the complex. A guide is optional; I visited independently and found it manageable after reading up beforehand.
Is the Philae sound and light show worth it?
Philae also has a sound and light show. If you specifically enjoy evening illuminations and want another reason to see the temple after dark, getting tickets to this might be worth your while. Otherwise, I would put the money and energy toward a daytime Philae visit and a Nile sunset. Check current show days, languages and ticket arrangements directly before booking. We did the sound and light show in Abu Simbel and skipped the one in Philae.
How to visit Philae independently
- Take a taxi (inDrive is an app that works in both Aswan and Luxor) from Aswan to Shellal / Marina Philae, south of the city near the old dam. Allow around 20 minutes from the centre, longer from a hotel further along the Corniche.
- Buy the temple ticket at the official booth. As of 2026, the price is EGP 550 for foreign adults, EGP 275 for students. There is a separate “temple panorama” ticket (we didn’t take this). You can also book the ticket online on the official egymonuments site.
- Hire a motorboat for the short crossing to Agilkia Island. Agree the round-trip price, waiting time and return before you get in. The boat is not included in the ticket. Pay in cash, preferably on return. Our experience here was not good. All the boats were filled with tour groups and the guides were handling the negotiations. When we turned up at the marina, we were the only two people without any guide. They knew we had no other way of getting to the island so they started quoting a ridiculous amount for the boat. Bargaining didn’t help and we ended up paying EGP 700 for the round trip but negotiated the wait time at the island to 1.5 hours.
- Visit the Temple of Isis, the mammisi, the Temple of Hathor and Trajan’s Kiosk at the temple. Notice the coptic crosses and the “graffiti” left by Napoleon’s scientific expedition to the temple. The complex itself isn’t huge, so it’s possible to cover everything in less than two hours.
- If you are not taking a guide (we didn’t) make sure to read up on the history and the different structures beforehand. Opening hours on the official page are 7 AM to 4 PM. Go earlier to avoid the heat. There are cafés at the temple for light refreshments.
- One of the best places to shop for souvenirs in Aswan is at the marina and at the temple docks. Pick something up on your way back, if you are interested.
The only thing we found annoying was the boat negotiation. Otherwise, visiting Philae on your own is straightforward.
A felucca ride in Aswan at sunset
A felucca ride on the Nile is one of Aswan’s classic sunset experiences. It was the thing I had most looked forward to, although watching the sails from my hotel turned out to be enough. Their white sails against the changing sky are enough of a spectacle that you do not need to be on one to enjoy the scene.
If you do take a felucca, agree the duration, route, total price and whether the quote is for the whole boat before setting off. Watching from shore or a Nile-view hotel is a very good low-effort alternative.
Visit a Nubian village in Aswan
My first Aswan hotel was in the Nubian village, reached after a night flight from Cairo. It was colourful and cheerful, but I left after half a day for Abu Simbel and never came back to explore. The Nubian village is the more touristy, louder side of Aswan.
The painted homes and river setting are part of the charm. Choose a stay that benefits local hosts, ask before photographing people, and skip anything that feels like a performance for visitors.
Kitchener’s Island botanical garden
Kitchener’s Island is a botanical garden in the Nile and a common addition to a boat trip. If you have booked a ride on a felucca, this is one of the places they might take you. I did not visit. Add it if you want a green, low-key break on the Nile; skip it otherwise.
The Unfinished Obelisk
The Unfinished Obelisk is an abandoned ancient granite obelisk still attached to the quarry bedrock. It is useful for understanding how Egyptians quarried and shaped these enormous obelisks, and is a good optional stop for anyone interested in the engineering behind the monuments.
Official listing (last checked September 2026): EGP 220 for foreign adults, EGP 110 for students, 7 AM to 4 PM (Ministry page). It is a short stop, often bundled with the High Dam and Philae on a highlights tour. We decided to skip this one.
Tombs of the Nobles and the Monastery of St Simeon
The Tombs of the Nobles sit on the west bank and are a quieter alternative to the famous royal tombs in Luxor. The Monastery of St Simeon is a ruined desert monastery, also on the west bank, often reached by boat and then a short desert transfer or camel ride. Add them if you have a third day, like Coptic sites, or are already on the west bank. I didn’t visit either.
The High Dam, Lake Nasser and Kalabsha Temple
The High Dam and Lake Nasser are closely tied to the modern story of Aswan and to the relocation of temples such as Philae. They are often included on Aswan highlights tours.
Kalabsha Temple sits on New Kalabsha Island in the lake and is another boat negotiation south of the High Dam. We wanted to go after Philae and did not, because haggling with boat people a second time felt like too much. I had already spent enough negotiating boats for the Philae trip that morning and I was done. Official foreign-adult ticket for Kalabsha is listed at EGP 200.
A realistic 2-day Aswan itinerary
Here is the relaxed two-day Aswan itinerary I would suggest:
Day 1: Arrive, check into your hotel. If you can get a Nile-view room, get it. Walk along the Corniche, catch the sunset on the Nile, go for a high tea at the Old Cataract or visit the Agatha Christie room as part of the tour they offer. Go to the souk (or Carrefour if you don’t want to haggle) to buy some Egyptian spices and teas. This day is yours to take in the Aswan vibes.
Day 2: Visit Philae Temple in the morning, independently or with a tour. Come back, eat, rest. Take a felucca before sunset and visit the Nubian village or Elephantine island as part of the tour.
Abu Simbel: add a third night in Aswan for a day trip, or do what I did and stay overnight there.
Day trips from Aswan: Abu Simbel, Kom Ombo and Edfu
Abu Simbel is the most popular day trip from Aswan. Most tours will leave early in the morning and get you back in Aswan by evening. I decided to stay there overnight instead, which gave me a quieter pace, but it also has enough transport logistics to deserve its own guide.
Kom Ombo, Edfu and Esna are the other popular temples along the Nile route between Aswan and Luxor. I visited them all in a day on my way to Luxor.
Where to stay in Aswan
There are three main regions you can choose to stay in Aswan – Central Aswan or the Corniche area, the islands on the Nile or the Nubian village across the Nile (near the airport).
| Area | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Nubian village | Colourful stays, a quieter river setting, a more local feel | More boat logistics if you want to get to central Aswan |
| Nile Corniche / central Aswan | Restaurants, transport and walkable | Busier and less secluded |
| Islands on the Nile (Elephantine island etc) | A slow, scenic stay and very good sunsets | You need a boat to step off the island |
After Abu Simbel, I stayed at Obelisk Nile Hotel in a Nile-view room. I was too unwell for the Old Cataract high tea I had planned, but that room turned the missed plan into an unexpectedly memorable evening: I watched the sun set over the river instead. Before Abu Simbel, I stayed at a quaint hotel in the Nubian Village near the airport. The hosts were really friendly and they arranged a car to take us to Abu Simbel the next day.
Aswan souq, vegetarian food and souvenirs
Aswan is a good place to buy hibiscus tea (karkade) and other spices since they are grown around the area. Aswan souq is one place for it. But I took the path of least resistance and bought Egyptian spices and teas at Carrefour (a supermarket near Old Cataract) instead of the souq. It was simple, fixed-priced, air-conditioned and exactly what I wanted after a hot temple visit. If you enjoy browsing and bargaining, the Aswan souq has more atmosphere and more choice. If you do not, a supermarket is a good alternative.
For souvenirs, the marina and the docks at the Philae temple are surprisingly good.
Finding vegetarian food in Aswan is surprisingly easy. Most restaurants offer vegetarian dishes like koshari, ful medames and ta’ameya. Some vegetarian/vegetarian-friendly restaurants that I had researched before the trip: Baba Restaurant flafel (really good falafel), Kerma Nubian restaurant, Juzoor farm to table, Tekkeya, Hapi cafe. You can even try the restaurant at your hotel and they may be able to offer you vegetarian alternatives.
Best time to visit Aswan
October to April is generally the most comfortable time for sightseeing in Upper Egypt. Winter days are pleasant but popular, while late spring and summer can be intensely hot. Start outdoor sights early, carry water and leave the middle of the day for lunch, rest or a shaded river view.
Plan for a sunset by the Nile in any season. In my case, it was the best part of my day.
The Aswan I had planned and the Aswan I experienced were two different cities. I got to see Philae, finish Death on the Nile beside the river and enjoy two sunsets filled with feluccas and seagulls. I would do it all again.
