Kashmir
Kashmir Travel Guide
Srinagar, Pahalgam and Gulmarg
Updated: May 19, 2026
Kashmir was the first trip I took with my husband after getting married, so the place holds a sentimental corner for me. But would I return? Honestly, no.
We spent a week bouncing between Srinagar’s houseboats, the meadows of Pahalgam, and the snow line in Gulmarg — and even with the political weight the valley carries, it’s hard not to be quietly stunned by it.
The Himalayas hold Kashmir up on three sides. In summer the valley is all green meadows and apple orchards; in autumn the chinars turn the colour of embers; in winter the whole place disappears under snow. Mughal-era gardens, wooden mosques, shikara boats on Dal Lake — there’s a reason it’s been called Jannat for four centuries.
That said: this is a guide written with eyes open. After the April 2025 Pahalgam attack, the conversation around visiting Kashmir changed, and I’ve tried to be honest about what’s safe, what’s worth it, and what I’d skip if I were going today.
2023
Quick Facts
Everything you need to know about Kashmir.
CAPITAL
Srinagar (summer capital of J&K UT; Jammu in winter)
CURRENCY
Indian Rupee (₹ / INR) |
TIME ZONE
IST – UTC+5.5h
LANGUAGE
Kashmiri & Urdu (Hindi and English widely understood)
When to Visit Kashmir
❄️ Winter🌸 Spring🌧 Summer🍂 Autumn❄️
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
✦ Our Pick
Spring (Mar–May) & Autumn (Sep–Oct)
Locals will tell you to visit Kashmir three times — once each for summer, autumn, and winter. They’re not wrong, but if you only have one trip in you: aim for late April to mid-May or late September to October. Spring gives you the tulip festival in full bloom, almond blossoms in the orchards, and meadows just shaking off the snow. Autumn turns the chinar trees a colour you genuinely cannot photograph properly — it has to be seen.
Visit in summer (Jun–Aug): Wildflower-filled meadows in Pahalgam and Yusmarg, ideal trekking weather, escape from the rest of India’s heat.
Visit in autumn (Sep–Nov): Apple and walnut harvest, chinars in their orange phase, fewer tourists, lower prices.
Visit in winter (Dec–Feb): Snowfall in Gulmarg, skiing, frozen Dal Lake mornings, and the kind of light that justifies dragging a camera up a gondola.
Getting Around Kashmir
Domestic Flights
- Srinagar Airport (SXR) is the only commercial airport in the valley. Direct flights run from Delhi (~1h 40m), Mumbai (~2h 30m), Bangalore (~3h 30m, 1-stop common), Chennai, Hyderabad, Kolkata, and Pune. IndiGo, Air India, Air India Express, Akasa, and SpiceJet all fly the route.
- For domestic flyers: SXR is a sensitive airport — arrive 2.5 hours early, expect extra baggage screening at entry and at the gate, and you’ll need a printed ticket or e-ticket on your phone to even enter the terminal.
Bus
- NH-44 Jammu–Srinagar highway is the only road route. Roughly 270 km, 8–10 hours in a private car when conditions are good — much longer in winter or when weather closes the Banihal section. Shared sumos and Volvo buses run daily.
- The drive is breathtaking but landslide-prone between November and March. I wouldn’t recommend it for a first Kashmir trip.
Trains
- There is no direct train to Srinagar yet. The historic Vande Bharat through to Srinagar via the Chenab Bridge began service in June 2025 — running between Katra (SVDK) and Srinagar (SINA) in roughly 3 hours. To use it, you fly or train to Jammu/Katra, then take the Vande Bharat through the new USBRL line. This is the most scenic way into Kashmir if you have the time.
How to get around in Kashmir
- Private taxi with driver is the default for most travellers. Daily rates run roughly ₹2,500–₹4,000 depending on the season and route. Most Srinagar hotels can arrange one; bargain hard or pre-book online.
- Local “Sumo” shared cabs run between major towns (Srinagar–Pahalgam, Srinagar–Sonamarg, Srinagar–Gulmarg) for ₹300–₹600 per seat. Cheap, but you wait until the cab fills up.
- Auto-rickshaws in Srinagar — no meters; agree on the fare before you sit in.
- Shikaras (the wooden boats on Dal Lake) — government-fixed rate is roughly ₹900 for a 1-hour ride, ₹1,500 for 2 hours. Boatmen will quote you triple. Politely insist on the official rate, or book through your hotel.
- Ola / Uber: Not available in Kashmir. Plan accordingly.
Safety in Kashmir
Safety Rating
Kashmir is a politically sensitive region and tourists were directly targeted in the April 2025 Pahalgam attack at Baisaran meadow, in which 26 civilians were killed. Since then, the primary tourist circuit (Srinagar, Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Pahalgam town) has reopened with significantly increased security — visible armed presence, CCTV, checkpoints, and dedicated Tourist Police. Over 16 million people visited J&K in 2025 without incident. That said, the underlying volatility hasn't changed: this is a disputed territory, and even popular areas have seen attacks. Go in with your eyes open, stay on well-trafficked routes, and skip the lesser-known meadows and treks unless you have a vetted local guide.
Solo Female Travel
Doable in Srinagar, Gulmarg, and Pahalgam town if you stick to the main circuit, dress modestly, and travel with a trusted driver. I wouldn't recommend it for your first solo trip in India — pick somewhere lower-stakes for that.
Pickpocketing/Scams
Scams are aplenty, even when you are an Indian who speaks Hindi. Overcharging for Shikara rides, selling fake pashminas, forced guides, houseboat catfishing, the list goes on.
Health & Medical
Reasonable hospitals in Srinagar. Only the basic clinics in Gulmarg and Pahalgam.
Areas to Know
The main tourist circuit (Srinagar–Gulmarg–Pahalgam–Sonamarg) is the only part of the valley I'd suggest for a first visit. Avoid the LoC border areas, Kupwara, Shopian, Kulgam, and lesser-known meadows like Baisaran unless you're with a vetted operator. Don't visit during politically sensitive dates (Republic Day, Independence Day, J&K Accession Day on October 26) if you can help it — security is tighter and bandhs are common. Stick to daytime travel between towns.
FAQs about Kashmir
What are the top tourist attractions in Kashmir?
Srinagar (Dal Lake, Mughal Gardens, houseboats), Gulmarg (gondola, skiing in winter), Pahalgam (Lidder Valley, Betaab Valley), and Sonamarg (Thajiwas Glacier) make up the main tourist circuit.
When is the best time to visit Kashmir?
April–May and September–October for pleasant weather, blooming or autumn-coloured landscapes, and open roads. December–February if you specifically want snow and skiing in Gulmarg.
What are the best activities for families in Kashmir?
Shikara rides on Dal Lake, the Mughal Gardens in Srinagar, walks in the meadows of Pahalgam, and the Gulmarg gondola — especially Phase 1, which is gentle enough for kids and elderly parents.
How do I get around Kashmir efficiently?
Private taxis with a driver are the easiest option (Ola/Uber don’t operate here). Shared sumos run between towns for cheaper, slower travel. Inside Srinagar, agree on auto-rickshaw fares before you sit in.
Is Kashmir safe for tourists?
The main tourist circuit (Srinagar–Gulmarg–Pahalgam–Sonamarg) is currently functioning with heavy security, but Kashmir remains a politically sensitive region. Check advisories the week of your trip, stick to the main circuit, avoid politically sensitive dates, and don’t venture into lesser-known areas without a vetted local guide.
What are the cultural dos and don'ts in Kashmir?
Dress modestly (especially around shrines and mosques), ask before photographing locals, remove your shoes at religious sites, and don’t discuss politics or the disputed status of the region with strangers.
Are there any tourist scams in Kashmir?
The big four: shikara overcharging (insist on the government rate of around ₹900/hour), fake pashminas sold as real (a real one starts upwards of ₹6,000), forced “guides” in Gulmarg you don’t actually need, and inflated saffron and dry-fruit prices outside the government emporium.
Will my mobile SIM work in Kashmir?
Only postpaid SIMs work on J&K networks. Prepaid connections from other states don’t activate. Carry a postpaid SIM, or buy a local Jio/Airtel postpaid with your Aadhaar in Srinagar (takes about 24 hours to activate).
